Clean Beauty 101: The truth about toxins in beauty products.
Are you familiar with the term “body burden”? Body burden is the amount of a toxic substance, or toxic load, that builds up in the body over time. Over the past fifteen years, the CDC has tested over 10,000 people in an attempt to determine their “toxic load.” The results identified hundreds of synthetic chemicals in their bloodstream, many of them present before birth. So, how did they get there? There are many pathways – the air we breathe, the water we drink, the food we eat, and the substances we come into contact with every day. In many circumstances, exposure is out of our control; however, there is one source we can do something about – the products we use on our bodies.
You may have heard the statistic that “up to 60% of what you put on your skin gets absorbed directly into the bloodstream”. On the flip side, you also may have heard that the skin provides an impenetrable barrier, or, that the molecules in personal care products are too large to pass through the skin. All of these assertions hold some degree of truth.
One of the many functions of the skin is to act as a barrier to keep fluids and our internal organs in and to keep harmful elements, such as bacteria and UV radiation, out. The top layer of the epidermis, called the stratum corneum, is-a sheath like layer of dead skin cells and lipids, which, while effective at keeping a host of things out, may be bypassed by small molecules and chemicals designed to enhance product penetration, or where the barrier function of the skin is compromised.
In most countries, including the US, there are still no regulated and enforced guidelines for beauty products. At last count, less than 20% of the more than 10,000 ingredients found in personal care products have ever been tested for safety by cosmetic industry reviewers. Even products claiming to be “natural” or labeled “made with organic ingredients” can’t be presumed to be clean or safe because standards governing these claims still allow a host of untested ingredients to be included. What’s more, companies are under no legal obligation to report health problems from their products to the FDA, nor do regulators assess the safety of products before they hit the shelves.
Toxins we ingest go through the kidneys and liver are processed by special enzymes to help break down and eliminate many of them. However, any toxins that do make it through the skin bypass this filter and may enter directly into the bloodstream or lymphatic system. How much & which toxins will fully penetrate the skin remains open to debate and is influenced by the condition of the skin, the chemical in question and the size of the molecules. Those that do reach the bloodstream & lymphatic system can build up over time, potentially contributing to a host of health problems from cancer to endocrine system issues, reproductive issues to neurological problems.
Generally speaking, chemicals can penetrate the skin in three ways:
1. Directly through cells, called intracellular
2. Between cells, called intercellular, or
3. By entering through structures like hair follicles or sweat ducts, called transappendageal.
Research shows that a variety of ingredients in skin care and other beauty products are present in the blood and urine of tested subjects. Studies also show a marked decrease in the levels of these chemicals when the use of the products containing them ceases. While it’s clear that the skin is not the impenetrable barrier that some claim it to be, the factors affecting absorption through the skin are varied, making it difficult, if not impossible to know precisely how much of a given chemical will be absorbed. This lack of clarity is perhaps more concerning than a “60%” statistic. Science still does not have a firm grasp on how much of a given toxin is too much, not to mention the cumulative effects of these on the body. According to the Environmental Working Group, the average woman uses 12 products, containing 168 unique ingredients, every day and men use an average of 6 products a day with 85 unique ingredients. While we may not be absorbing 60% of everything we put on our bodies, chances are, we are absorbing more than is good for us. Add to this the fact that we inhale and ingest toxins regularly, and it just makes sense to limit your exposure where you can by choosing cleaner products.
Not sure how your products stack up? Here’s a quick reference list of the top twelve “Dirty Dozen” ingredients to avoid in your personal care products, all of which have all been found to have some detrimental effect as endocrine disruptors, carcinogens, mutagens (causing genetic mutations), estrogen mimickers, and /or allergens, as well as being harmful to the environment.
THE DIRTY DOZEN
BHA & BHT (Butylated Hydroxyanisole & Butylated Hydroxytoluene): preservatives found in lipsticks, moisturizes, and some food items.
Coal Tar Dyes: used as a colorant in hair dye and often labeled as P-phenylenediamine or CI followed by a 5-digit number.
DEA (Diethanolamine): used to make products sudsy and may be found in cleansers, soaps, shampoos.
DBP (Dibutyl Phthalate): a plasticizer found in nail polish.
Formaldehyde-Releasing Preservatives: These may also be labeled as DMDM Hydantoin, Diazolidinyl Urea, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Methenamine, Quaternium-15, and Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate.
Parabens: found in 75-90% of cosmetics as a preservative. These are easily absorbed through the skin and may potentiate breast cancer.
Parfum: often listed as Fragrance. Can be classified as a trade secret so specific ingredients do not need to be disclosed on the packaging.
PEG Compounds: used as thickeners in cream-based cosmetics.
Petrolatum: also called mineral oil jelly, is used to “lock in” moisture on the skin.
Siloxanes: can be found in cosmetics, deodorants, moisturizers, and facial treatments.
SLS (Sodium Laureth Sulfate): makes products sudsy and foamy. It can be found in cleansers, shampoos, and shower gels.
Triclosan: an anti-bacterial agent. In 2016, the FDA banned triclosan from use in antibacterial soaps and hand washes, among other products.
Ready to move beyond the Dirty Dozen, download the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics Red List.
WHERE TO START
1. Begin with what you use the most and move on from there. In your skincare routine, look at your daily cleanser, moisturizer, and SPF. Swap out the most frequently used items first.
2. Be sure to look at your core hygiene products as well, such as toothpaste, deodorant, shampoo, and conditioner. Swap out the most frequently used items, and those covering the most surface area first.
3. If you wear perfume, be sure to look at the ingredients. Synthetic fragrance is one of the biggest offenders.
Consider replacing conventional, less than healthy for your products with products from conscientious brands, such as Naturopathica (available at Root Whole Body) or Eminence Organics (available at Root Whole Body), both of which formulate their products using safer ingredients. Remember - what you put on your skin is as important as what you put into your body. Swapping out one product at a time will get you well on your way to a healthier you!
If you’re not sure, bring your current skin care products in for evaluation by our estheticians when you book a Root facial. For a limited time, receive a Free Naturopathica Kombucha Bio-Cellulose Mask + Natural Bristle Body Brush Home Care Kit when you book two, 75-miniute facials. They’ll take a close look at what you are using and, if there are concerns, help you prioritize what to replace and make recommendations to phase in healthier options.